All About Pearls: How to Choose the Best Type of Pearl for Your Jewelry

Pearls share a timeless quality with diamonds, making them a perennial favorite. Whether you have a classic strand to pair with a cocktail dress or a Tahitian pearl ring accented with colorful gemstones, pearls are versatile and never go out of style.

You may think that a pearl is just a pearl, or that they are all alike. The truth is there are many different types of pearls.

Pearls can differ in source, color, shape, and luster. Each type of pearl comes with its own unique pros and cons. Let’s dive into the details so you can better decide which pearls you might want to add to your jewelry collection.

What Is a Pearl?

This may seem like a basic question, but it’s truly important to understand what a pearl is and where exactly it comes from. A pearl is a gemstone that is created naturally by oysters or mussels when a grain of sand or piece of shell enters the oyster or mussel. It covers the foreign object in layers of nacre, which builds up over time and creates the pearl. The act of the mollusk protecting itself from damage is what creates this beautiful gemstone that can be appreciated in its natural state without any cutting or polishing. 

What Are the Different Types of Pearls?

There are two main categories of pearls, natural and cultured. Natural pearls form organically in the wild without human intervention, while cultured pearls are created with human assistance. In the case of cultured pearls, a small object is intentionally inserted into the mollusk to initiate the pearl-forming process. The majority of pearls on the market today are cultured, as natural pearls are very rare. There are also different types of pearls, which we will now examine individually.

1. Akoya Pearls: Akoya pearls are the most common type of pearl that people imagine in a classic pearl necklace. These pearls are most often cultured in Japan and China in saltwater and are typically white and almost perfectly round, with a bright luster. They can range in size from 5mm - 9mm, though they are sometimes available in larger sizes. 

2. Freshwater Pearls: Freshwater pearls are also cultured in China, but they’re grown in freshwater lakes and rivers instead of saltwater environments. They are usually less expensive than Akoya pearls and come in a wider variety. Cultured freshwater pearls are available in colors like peach, light purple, and light pink. They come in many shapes and sizes, and thanks to modern technology they tend to have a fairly consistent shape and luster. 

3. Tahitian Pearls: Tahitian pearls are very uniquely known for their color. Although the name suggests that they are cultured in Tahiti, they are actually cultured in the saltwater of the French Polynesian islands. They can range in color from deep gray to green and are usually larger than Akoya or freshwater pearls, ranging from 8mm - 16mm.

4. South Sea Pearls: South Sea pearls are cultured in Australia, Indonesia, and the Philippines, and can grow to be very large, from 9mm - 18mm. South Sea pearls typically come in shades of white or gold and are known for their thick nacre and stunning luster. Due to their size and beauty, they can fetch a very high price tag. 

5. Keshi Pearls: Keshi pearls are especially unique because they form as anomalies in the typical pearl creation process. Sometimes when the foreign object enters the mollusk, it can be pushed out, yet the mollusk still continues to produce the layers of nacre. When this happens, a small, oddly shaped pearl is grown. Because it’s not growing around the foreign object, it is only made of nacre, so it’s very lustrous. 

Pearl Shapes

Pearl shapes can vary greatly. The most popular is round because round pearls can be used to craft the ideal pearl strand.

Near round pearls are not quite perfectly round, but without being examined carefully, a pearl strand with these would still look very nice and even.

There are also oval shaped pearls and teardrop shaped pearls that are popular for pendants and earrings.

Button pearls are rounded on one side and flat on the other, much like cabochon gemstones. They’re especially popular for stud earrings, rather than drop styles.

Finally, there are baroque pearls, which are a freeform shape. They can be absolutely beautiful in any type of jewelry if you can appreciate their unique artistic aspect.

Cultured vs. Imitation Pearls

Since natural pearls are so rare, the majority of pearls on the market today are cultured. While cultured pearls are formed with human intervention, they are still pearls. Please do not confuse them with imitation pearls, which are manmade out of glass or plastic and just coated in a layer to mimic the luster of a real pearl.

Due to how they are formed and what they are made of, imitation pearls will look too “perfect” and uniform to be real. They also lack the depth of luster of a real pearl. 

Color, Luster, and Grading

Pearls can come in many different colors including white, cream, pink, purple, green, gray, and gold. There are also some pearls that appear white or cream, but have flashes of color when in certain light sources.

Color is distinct from luster, which refers to the way light reflects off the surface of the pearl. A high-quality pearl will have a mirror-like surface that makes it shine and glow, while a low-quality pearl will appear matte and dull. Naturally, pearls with a high luster are more expensive. 

The grading system for pearls is not consistent throughout the world, but the majority of pearl vendors grade their pearls from A (lowest quality) to AAAA (highest quality). AAA or AAAA pearls have a nice luster, symmetrical shape, and no surface blemishes. Though pearls don’t usually come with a grading certificate, you should still ask the seller how the pearl is graded and why. 

Caring for Pearls

Pearls can be worn often, but they are still considered a soft gemstone and are susceptible to damage. It’s not uncommon for pearls to get surface blemishes, but with care this can be avoided. Like other jewelry, make sure not to expose your pearls to chemicals, including cleaners, makeup, chlorine, etc. When you take off your pearls, wipe them down with a pearl cloth and store them wrapped in a soft fabric to keep them from getting additional blemishes. 

Pearls are timeless and versatile, regardless of the type you are drawn to. Whether you select a strand of Akoya pearls or decide to custom design a jewelry piece with colorful baroque pearls, you can find a pearl to match every outfit. Now that you know how pearls are formed, along with their various types, colors, and shapes, you can shop with confidence—feeling informed and better prepared to find exactly what you’re looking for.