Art Deco vs. Art Nouveau Jewelry: Which Antique Style is Best?

What exactly qualifies a piece of jewelry as “antique”? Generally speaking, jewelry must be at least 100 years old to earn the title of “antique.” It’s easy to confuse the terms “antique” and “vintage,” but they’re not quite the same. Vintage typically refers to items that are between 20 and 100 years old, while antique pieces are those that have passed the century mark.

Antique jewelry is usually grouped by historical periods, each with its own distinct style and craftsmanship. Here are some of the most well-known:

• Georgian Era (1714–1837): Jewelry from this era was handmade with remarkable attention to detail and often featured motifs inspired by nature.
• Victorian Era (1837–1901): Romantic, moody, and sometimes dark, Victorian jewelry was heavily influenced by Queen Victoria’s personal style and the sentiments of the era.
• Edwardian Era (1901–1915): Known for its elegance and refinement, Edwardian jewelry often featured platinum settings with lacy, airy designs.
• Art Nouveau (1890–1910): This artistic period brought organic, flowing designs to jewelry—think flowers, vines, and insects—often decorated with colorful enamel work.
• Art Deco (1920–1939): In stark contrast to Art Nouveau, Art Deco introduced bold geometry, symmetry, and modern flair to jewelry design.

How to Tell If Jewelry Is Truly Antique

It’s not uncommon to find new jewelry that borrows aesthetic elements from antique styles, but appearances can be deceiving. A piece isn’t automatically antique just because it looks old. The only way to be entirely sure is to have it evaluated by a qualified expert. Still, there are some clues that can help you make an educated guess.

Authentic antique jewelry is often made with higher-purity metals like 18kt or 22kt gold, or platinum. Look for metal stamps or have the metal tested. Gemstones are another giveaway, as older stones were cut by hand, so they tend to be less uniform than modern stones. Look for older cutting styles like old mine cuts, old European cuts, and single cuts. Pearls, garnets, sapphires, diamonds, and amethysts were all popular choices during antique eras.

You can also check for stamps that identify the designer or manufacturer. In European pieces especially, date stamps were commonly added, but since these marks are sometimes tiny, they may require a magnifier to view clearly.

Another sign of age is patina, which is the soft tarnish that occurs naturally on metal over time, especially on silver. While some people instinctively want to polish it away, patina can add value and should only be cleaned after talking to a professional. To get the most accurate information, it’s best to consult a jeweler, appraiser, or antique specialist. 

Two Popular Eras

Two standout styles in antique jewelry are Art Deco and Art Nouveau. These iconic design movements defined their respective eras and continue to influence modern aesthetics. Though both emerged in the early 20th century, they are distinctly different in style and inspiration. One is bold, geometric, and modern, while the other is romantic, flowing, and organic.

Let’s explore the origins, motifs, and materials of each style to see which one speaks to you more. 

The Timeline & Inspiration

Art Nouveau (1890–1910): Art Nouveau, which means “new art,” began in the late 19th century and was inspired by the industrial revolution–or rather it was anti-industrial revolution. Artists and designers felt that personal craftsmanship had been cast aside by mass production, so they banded together to re-introduce the artistry of jewelry making.

Art Nouveau was fueled by organic and flowing designs that created a dreamy resurgence of handmade jewelry. It often reflects themes of animals, leaves, and the feminine form as inspiration. It leaned heavily on emotion and romance, capturing the beauty of the subject matter. Art Nouveau first started in Europe just with jewelry, but spread to other artistic avenues like furniture and architecture. Although it didn’t last long, it managed to leave a lasting impact. 

Art Deco (1920–1940): After World War I, Art Deco emerged as a completely opposite reaction to Art Nouveau. Art Deco was geometric, structured, and modern, overflowing with bold, symmetrical patterns. It just screamed luxury.

With Art Deco you’ll often see rectangles, triangles, chevron patterns, and motifs reminiscent of ancient Egypt and Greece. This movement embraced technology and became very popular within the Hollywood scene. 

Jewelry Materials

Art Nouveau: Art Nouveau jewelers focused on handmade jewelry with unusual materials that tended to be softer, such as opals, moonstones, and pearls. They often created enameled jewelry–which gave the appearance of stained glass–and worked in yellow gold. Two popular jewelers who truly embraced the Art Nouveau aesthetic were René Lalique and Louis Comfort Tiffany.

Art Deco: Whereas Art Nouveau was a soft, quiet movement, Art Deco was quite loud. It was about maximalism, sparkle, and being seen. Jewelers during this time used stones like diamonds, emeralds, rubies, and sapphires. They mostly set them in platinum because it was strong and expensive. Every design was meticulously planned and measured to keep the desired patterns even. 

Motifs & Symbols

Art Nouveau: Art Nouveau’s greatest muse was nature and mythology. You’ll find many pieces with fairytale designs such as mermaids, butterflies, and swirling floral patterns. The female figure was featured heavily in these pieces as powerful symbols.

Art Deco: Art Deco was a reflection of the strong urban and global feeling of the time, with influences from many different cultures. It also focused on modern imagery and machine-inspired patterns. 

Where We See These Jewelry Styles Today

Art Nouveau: Art Nouveau is still popular today because of its romantic, soft aesthetic. It appears in boho style jewelry with soft, natural themed pieces that feature floral engravings, opals, and moonstones.

Art Deco: Art Deco has a resurgence every so often, especially with people who like the look of antique jewelry but want something that is structured with clean lines. If you come across a platinum jewelry piece with geometric patterns and symmetrically set diamonds, there’s a chance it may be an Art Deco inspired piece. 

Final Thoughts

Even though Art Deco and Art Nouveau were happening during similar times, they have completely different design ideals and philosophies behind them. While Art Nouveau celebrates the natural world with soft curves, dreamy details, and a sense of romance, Art Deco focuses on modernity, symmetry, and bold design. If you love softness and feminine details, you may be drawn to the elegance of Art Nouveau, but if strong shapes and sparkle speak to you more, definitely consider Art Deco jewelry.

Of course, there’s no need to limit yourself, since you can choose jewelry from each era to wear separately. Why put yourself in a box when you can branch out and enjoy both styles?