How To Properly Identify, Appraise, and Maintain Antique Jewelry

Antique jewelry is not only beautifully crafted, it can also hold great historical significance. Whether you've inherited antique jewelry from your great-grandparents or are a frequent visitor to estate sales, understanding how to identify and care for these treasures is essential to preserve their beauty and ensure they stand the test of time.

Identifying Antique Jewelry

You may ask yourself, What makes jewelry antique? This is certainly a fair question because the answer changes as time progresses. As a rule of thumb, jewelry should be over 100 years old in order to be considered antique. Sometimes the words "antique" and "vintage" are used interchangeably, however vintage is anything that is from 20 to 100 years old.

There are several eras commonly used to classify antique jewelry. Let's review a few of those:

Georgian Era (1714-1837): The jewelry of the Georgian Era was crafted by hand with detailed natural motifs.

Victorian Era (1837-1901): The jewelry of the Victorian Era was both romantic and Gothic in design, mostly mimicking the style of Queen Victoria.

Edwardian Era (1901-1915): Edwardian Era jewelry was often made of platinum and was full of intricate, light designs.

Art Nouveau (1890-1910): Jewelry from the Art Nouveau period was typically organic in design, such as flowers, leaves, and even bugs. Much of the jewelry during this time period was adorned with enamel, which added bright colors otherwise not attainable with metal and gemstones.

Art Deco (1920-1939): The Art Deco period was adorned with bold, geometric patterns.

What is considered antique jewelry?

Of course there are plenty of modern jewelry pieces that may contain some characteristics of antique jewelry from any of the above time periods, but that alone doesn’t make it antique. In order to determine if a piece of jewelry is truly antique, you should have it evaluated by a professional. That said, there are some specific things to look out for on your own that may assist you with determining if a piece of jewelry is an antique or a reproduction.

Antique jewelry was often crafted using higher-karat gold, such as 18kt or 22kt, or platinum. Make sure to review the metal stamp, or have it tested by a jeweler, to confirm the metal. Common gemstones during the antique periods were cut by hand, which means that they were much less precise than today’s machine cut gemstones. Asymmetrical cuts, imperfections, and older cutting styles (old mine cut, old European cut, single cut) are more common in antique jewelry. Popular gemstones to look out for are pearls, amethysts, diamonds, garnets, and sapphires. 

Most jewelry will have stamps somewhere to indicate the type of metal and the manufacturer. In addition to considering the type of metal, it's important to pay attention to the maker as well. For jewelry made in Europe, there was often a date stamped into the metal to indicate when it was made. There are sometimes stamps that indicate the location where something was crafted–although they may be very small and you may need a jeweler’s loupe or microscope to view them clearly. 

Much antique jewelry–especially silver–can have a fair amount of patina, which is the natural tarnish that can develop on metals over time. This can be a good indication of the age of the piece and should not be cleaned without first consulting an expert. Look for a jeweler, appraiser, or antique dealer, as they can authenticate the jewelry and provide you with an estimated value and history on the pieces. 

Caring for Antique Jewelry

Due to how old and delicate antique jewelry can be, it should be cared for with caution. As with any jewelry, the metals can be further tarnished by chemicals or oils, so make sure not to expose them to any cleaning supplies, lotions, makeup, etc. It should ideally be cleaned only by a professional to avoid removing any of the natural qualities of the jewelry, but if you must clean it at home, only use a soft cloth or mild soap and a soft toothbrush. Make sure you know what exactly the jewelry is made of before using any particular cleaning method. Your antique jewelry should be stored similarly to the rest of your jewelry, i.e. in a cool, dry place and preferably in individual compartments to avoid scratching. 

Repairing Antique Jewelry

While most normal jewelry repairs can be done by any experienced jeweler, antique jewelry repair should be treated differently.

Minor repairs can be done by a jeweler with antique jewelry experience, but you must be careful that the repairs do not alter the value of the piece, both historical and financial. If the design is altered or cleaned too much, it may no longer be considered antique. It’s best to do your research and find a jeweler who specializes in antique jewelry repairs. Be sure to keep a thorough record of any work that is done on the jewelry, as it may be needed to complete future appraisals in order to determine its accurate value. 

Valuing Antique Jewelry

The value of antique jewelry is determined by many different factors. The most important would be how rare it is. If it’s a one-of-a-kind piece, that makes it incredibly rare and therefore would increase the value, as opposed to an item that was produced in larger quantities.

The condition of the jewelry is equally important, as well-cared-for antique pieces in excellent condition are typically more valuable than those riddled with scratches or other damage. Documentation (in the form of prior appraisals, metal stamps, manufacturer stamps, gem identification documents, etc.) is a big asset when determining the value of antique jewelry, since it’s the best way to determine the authenticity of the piece.

Antique jewelry is more than just a beautiful accessory; owning it means possessing a valuable piece of history. Before tossing it in your jewelry box with the rest of your rings and necklaces, take a little time to get to know and understand your antique jewelry. Do some research yourself or have it evaluated by a professional in order to understand how to properly care for it. From knowing the eras it came from and the characteristics that make it unique to that time period, you can determine the best way to clean, store, and repair it should the need arise.

Whether passed down through family or discovered at a thrift store, antique jewelry is a treasure worth cherishing.