Round vs. Princess Shape Diamonds: Which is Right for You?

Choosing a diamond is a very personal decision, whether it’s for an engagement ring, a pendant, or diamond stud earrings. Not only is a diamond quite a financial investment, but it’s also an investment in yourself: your jewelry wardrobe, your personal style, and future generations.

If you’re purchasing the diamond for a loved one, then it’s an investment in a special relationship. There are many things to consider when choosing a diamond, but in order to not get entirely too overwhelmed, for the sake of today let’s focus only on shape and specifically two shapes, round vs. princess cut. 

Round and princess cut diamonds are two of the most popular diamond shapes. In this article we'll help you understand:

• What makes them different?

• How are they similar?

• How can you choose between the two if you love them both equally?

These are all fair questions to ask yourself and your jeweler, but before we answer them it's important you understand what diamond cut and diamond shape are. There is a difference.

The shape of a diamond is its physical outline when viewed from above and is mostly about personal style. Often you will hear “round cut” or “princess cut” when it comes to describing a diamond, but technically “cut” refers to how well the diamond has been faceted and–depending upon the grading lab–cut can be categorized using different words such as ideal, excellent, very good, good, fair, or poor. The cut of a diamond is the most important factor influencing its sparkle, as a well-cut diamond allows light to pass through and reflect back to the eye with maximum brilliance. The cut is determined based upon different percentages and measurements of details like symmetry, depth, table size, and polish. 

Round shaped diamonds

As the most popular diamond shape, the round brilliant cut has a rich and complex history. Developed in the early 20th century, it has undergone numerous refinements to become the iconic shape we know and love today. Early versions evolved from the Old Mine Cut, Single Cut, Old European Cut, and Transition Cut. Each version of the round diamond reflected the technology available at the time and the style of that era. From hand-cut stones with high crowns and large culets to more symmetrical stones with incredible light reflection, the round shaped diamond has come a long way.

The modern round brilliant cut diamond, which was introduced in 1919 by Marcel Tolkowsky, has 57 or 58 facets that maximize brilliance. When viewed from above it is a perfect circle, whereas from the side it looks like a cone; this type of cut enhances the sparkle of the stone.

Statistically, about 70% of all diamonds sold are round cut and they are set in all types of jewelry, from solitaires to halo designs. Because of their popularity, round diamonds tend to be more expensive, which is certainly something to consider when choosing your diamond.

Princess cut diamonds

Sometimes referred to as square shaped, the princess cut is the most popular of the fancy shaped diamonds–“fancy” meaning any shape other than the classic round brilliant.

The princess cut gained popularity in the 1960s through the 1980s. It's known for its impressive sparkle and clean, modern silhouette. With 57 or 76 facets, depending on the cut style, this shape reflects light beautifully and creates eye-catching sparkle. Its sharp corners give it a bold look, but those same sharp corners can be vulnerable to chipping if not properly protected–which limits some of the setting styles available. To keep a princess cut diamond secure and safe from damage, jewelers typically use v-shaped prongs or protective bezels. Despite this, it continues to be very popular in all types of jewelry, but especially engagement rings. 

Key differences between round and princess cut

There are many aspects of the different diamond shapes we can compare.

Brilliance: Round diamonds are known for their unparalleled sparkle due to their faceting style, though princess cut diamonds are also very brilliant.

Cost: Princess cut diamonds are usually the more cost-effective option. Round brilliant cut diamonds are pricey because of their popularity.

Setting options: Since round diamonds are easier to set (given their lack of corners), they can be used in a wider variety of setting styles. With princess cut you are limited  in your setting options to the v-prongs for safety purposes.

Appearance: Princess cut diamonds tend to appear larger than round diamonds of the same carat weight, making them an attractive option—especially for those working within a budget.

What if you like both?

For those of you who like the idea of both diamond shapes, there’s really no reason why you can’t combine the two into a single piece of jewelry. You see this often in three-stone rings, where the center stone is a different shape than the two side stones. This is also seen on eternity bands, where diamond shapes are alternating.

Round diamonds can bring a softness and brilliance to the design, while princess cuts add a contemporary feel. Mixing diamond shapes should be as common as mixing metal colors is, although it isn’t quite yet.

Which One Fits Your Personal Style?

Choosing between two different diamond shapes, specifically round brilliant or princess, can take some research and serious consideration, but it really depends upon your own personal style. Of course you should take into consideration your budget, the pros and cons of each stone shape–such as the setting limitations and brilliance.

Final Considerations

While shopping online is convenient, you may not want to rely entirely on pictures and videos to select your diamond. Seeing it in person from all angles, comparing the sparkle under different light sources, and seeing how it looks on your hand (or neck or ear) may change what shape you are inclined to choose. Both shapes are beautiful and timeless when set into the right piece of jewelry.

Ultimately, what matters most is that you—or the person receiving the gift—truly enjoys wearing the piece for years to come. Try not to focus too much on passing trends, as they come and go, while timeless jewelry remains meaningful and lasting.