What Are the Best (Hypoallergenic) Jewelry Metals for Sensitive Skin?

Picture this: it’s the morning after your engagement and you spent the previous evening celebrating with your new fiance, family, and friends. You showed off your gorgeous engagement ring and talked about venue ideas. You’re currently enjoying a steaming cup of coffee when you realize that your finger is itchy. Not only that, but you have a mild rash starting to form. Unbeknownst to your fiance, he proposed with a ring made of a metal that you didn’t even know you were allergic to.

Now what? You can hope the jeweler has a generous return policy or that your ring wasn’t custom, because custom rings are typically not returnable. You now find yourself in an uncomfortable situation–after one of the happiest days of your life. Unfortunately this can happen to you; metal allergies are much more common than people realize.

Since we are all so different, so are our allergies. There are those lucky people who aren’t allergic to anything, and then there are those who are allergic to too many things to name. Most of us fall somewhere in the middle–pollen irritates our noses or certain nuts make our throat scratchy. And then there are those who are allergic to certain metals. Luckily, metal allergies are not typically severe, but they can vary from person to person. Metal allergies can present as itchiness, irritation, and rashes.

One of the most common metals to cause allergies is nickel, which is used as an alloy in a large percentage of jewelry manufactured today, specifically in white gold. Other metals that can cause allergies are copper or brass, which are used to create rose gold and are sometimes also mixed with silver. Even if only a small amount of these metals is present in the jewelry they can cause an allergy. The only way to truly avoid metal allergies is to choose hypoallergenic jewelry, which can come in many forms.

Hypoallergenic Metal Options

1. 24 Karat Gold: Pure gold, or 24-karat gold, contains no other metals and is a safe hypoallergenic metal. Unfortunately pure gold is very soft and really cannot be used to manufacture jewelry since it can be too easily damaged to be worn safely. The majority of gold jewelry is 14 karat or 18 karat. 18 karat gold is made of 75% gold and 25% other metals. It has a rich yellow color and is often used in fine jewelry, but it’s slightly soft, making it less ideal for everyday wear. On the other hand, 14 karat gold contains 58.3% gold and 41.7% other metals, giving it a beautiful color while being more durable. This makes 14 karat gold the most popular choice for fine jewelry, including engagement rings and wedding bands, as it can withstand daily wear and securely hold precious gemstones. However, because metals such as nickel and copper can be used to create 14 karat and 18 karat gold, people with sensitive skin may still end up with allergy issues. Ultimately, gold may not be the best option for anyone who suffers from metal allergy.

2. Platinum: Platinum is a great choice for people with metal allergies. (It also does not tarnish.) Platinum is a naturally hypoallergenic metal, so it's unlikely to cause a skin allergy. Due to how durable platinum is, it does not need to be mixed with a high percentage of other metals in order to make it hard enough to manufacture jewelry. Because of this, platinum jewelry is usually at least 95% pure platinum, reducing the risk of allergic reactions. Although platinum is more rare, and therefore more expensive, it can be worth the higher price tag to ensure your ring does not cause any medical issues.

3. Palladium: Like platinum, palladium is a naturally hypoallergenic metal and does not get mixed with large percentages of other metals when it's used to make jewelry. It's a good option for sensitive skin, but it can create other issues with durability. Palladium is more difficult for jewelers to work with due to how fragile it can be. It tends to crack easily and is complicated to repair. It is a lower cost option to platinum, which has made it popular within the past several years, but whether that lower cost is worth the risk is up to the consumer.

4. Stainless Steel: Stainless steel is surprisingly popular for earrings due to its hypoallergenic nature. Many people experience discomfort, swelling, and rashes when wearing jewelry that contains metals they are sensitive to. Stainless steel is one of the few options that most people can wear without the risk of any reaction. In fact surgical grade stainless steel is used in medical implants because of its hypoallergenic properties. (If you have an extreme nickel allergy, you may want to avoid it, simply because sometimes nickel can be added to stainless steel.)

If you already own a piece of jewelry that triggers an allergic reaction, don’t worry—there’s a solution that can allow you to continue wearing it while minimizing the risk of irritation. Rhodium plating can be applied and will cover the jewelry in a layer of rhodium, which is naturally hypoallergenic. It can wear off over time (how quickly depends upon your personal skin chemistry) and may need to be re-plated every few years. This is a great option if the jewelry you’re allergic to is not returnable or you really just love the design but can’t wear it without discomfort.

As with all jewelry, it’s important to clean your hypoallergenic jewelry according to the specific type of metal it is. Be sure to use hypoallergenic cleaning products; otherwise, it will be difficult to determine whether a reaction is caused by the jewelry or the cleaner. Gold, platinum, and palladium can be cleaned by soaking them in warm water with a bit of dish soap. If needed, use a soft-bristled toothbrush to gently scrub away any dirt. Silver can also be cleaned this way, but it typically needs extra care with a silver polishing cloth to remove tarnish that builds up over time.

Metal allergies can be unexpected and upsetting, especially when it comes to sentimental jewelry like engagement rings. While reactions can vary from mild itching to more severe irritation, it can be frustrating nonetheless. Understanding the metals used in jewelry and how they might affect your skin is key to preventing metal allergies. Of course if you didn't own a lot of jewelry prior to making a large jewelry purchase, such as an engagement ring, it may be difficult to avoid. Nickel, copper, and brass are common metals that can cause irritation, and they are often found in metals used for everyday fine jewelry. If you have a history of metal allergies, opt for platinum, palladium, or surgical-grade stainless steel. And if you find that you're allergic to a piece of jewelry you already own, give rhodium plating a try. With so many hypoallergenic metal options available today, you can enjoy beautiful jewelry without worrying about an itchy ring finger.